Arnon Grunberg

Branzino

My own mother

Last night in Venice I tried to eat the worst fish ever served to me in a restaurant. Even my own mother never served me a fish like this.
The fish (a “branzino”) would have been a disgrace to hungry cats. I felt ashamed for having taken my assistant Eva who traveled all the way with my duffel bag to Venice to a restaurant like this. The restaurant named “Al Theatro” -- not far from the hospitable and charming hotel La Fenice did serve us an acceptable white wine.
After a fish like this Iraq is probably going to be a relief.