In the dining section of The NY Times Sam Sifton reviewed Pulino’s Bar & Pizzeria on Bowery.
I was intrigued by this paragraph: “Freud said cultural achievement and sensual pleasure pull in opposite directions. He never met Keith McNally, who just introduced the insanely crowded Pulino’s Bar & Pizzeria on a formerly moribund corner of the Bowery and East Houston Street.
Thirty years ago, Mr. McNally opened Odeon, in TriBeCa. It was hardly TriBeCa then. Mr. McNally made the neighborhood seem like Paris, though the streets were deserted and rats ran in the gutters. It was the sort of restaurant where artists ate steak and all sorts of interesting things happened in the restrooms. It had a great country salad.”
The remark about the country salad directly after Sifton’s memories of restaurant restrooms is proof that Sam Sifton is a good writer.
Having said this: I have never been to restaurants where interesting things happened in restrooms. I hope I will visit a restaurant with an interesting restroom in the near future. And I'm not too fond of country salad.