Sam Sifton is raving about a restaurant named “The Dutch” on Sullivan Street:
‘Ready for the clunkers? Try an appetizer of early melon with country ham and peppery arugula. It is better than decent. (Take that!) An entree of sea scallops with bacon, peas and pickled ramps? It is unqualifiedly good. (Faint praise!)
Now try umami-rich, miso-bathed asparagus with big hunks of bacon and a poached egg and think how good a word “unctuous” is when you are eating it. Rip through little sandwiches of fried soft-shell crab with a sauce that would lead Alice Waters into McDonald’s if it served it.’
Call me a party pooper but I’m pretty sure that I wouldn't like to eat the word “unctuous”.